DETAILS TO KNOW IF YOU ARE CONSIDERING ONE OF MY PUPPIES OR KITTENS:
DEPOSITS
If you put a deposit on a kitten (or puppy), no matter how beautiful they turn out to be, the price cannot go up. It can only go down if something changes (like color or coat length or ears). Deposits are completely refundable until the kitten (or puppy) is 6 weeks old, for any reason. (You don’t have to fabricate some complicated story!) After your kitten (or puppy) is 6 weeks old, deposits can float and be applied to a later kitten (or puppy), or switch to a different available kitten, (or available puppy)…but the deposit is not refundable.
HEALTH GUARANTEE
There is a 1 yr. health guarantee which covers any life-threatening diseases contracted at my home before you take your kitten (or puppy). It also covers any congenital defect which may be discovered during the first year after you take the kitten (or puppy). Things not covered are: fleas, ticks, ear mites, worms, giardia, coccidia, or FIP. I de-worm, de-flea, vaccinate, and bathe all my babies, taking all normal steps to eradicate any parasites and pests. I also test my parents to make sure they are not carrying any diseases to pass on to their offspring. However, if you have taken all continuing normal steps to prevent parasites and have a particularly stubborn strain of parasite, I usually give you any medicine I have that can help, or sometimes help cover a vet bill in a situation where it costs an unusually high amount of money to get the baby back to normal. If there is a disease or congenital defect that is covered by the guarantee, I agree to either: cover the vet bills up to the cost of the kitten (or puppy), or refund your money up to the cost of the kitten (or puppy) to compensate for the vet bills, even if you don’t choose to use the vet to correct the problem, or give you another acceptable kitten (or puppy) at the time, or in the future. You do not have to give your kitten (or puppy) back, whichever way you choose to go. It is your choice which of the three ways you want to go. You DO have to send me the vet statement as to what is wrong, how the problem originated, and how much it will cost to correct the problem. Also give the vet your permission to talk to me if necessary. Sometimes I need to ask questions about a problem in case there is something I need to change in my breeding program to eliminate or avoid that in the future. Sometimes I have noticed a defect, like an umbilical hernia, a crooked tail, or a problem rear dewclaw, and I will deduct an amount from the original price to compensate for that. If it is not my baby, then the breeder who has me sell that kitten or puppy is always on board with that. Then we do not breed that mom to that dad again. If I see a defect, I always disclose it to a buyer. I will also help to find the least expensive vet to “fix” the defect, if desired. My goal is to never have any defects, but if they exist, I try to make sure the baby and the buyer have a happy ending!
SPAY/NEUTER CONTRACTS
I could give you a form that you would sign requiring you to spay/neuter your kitten (or puppy), and withhold papers, or refund money, or give you some incentive to do that, or legal punishment if you didn’t do that, but I am not the spay/neuter police. That takes a lot of time and effort to follow up everyone in all parts of the world where my kittens (or puppies) might go. I also have found that anyone who plans to breed their kitten (or puppy) eventually without my knowledge or blessing, will lie and scheme to get around my requirements. All I can say is that there is a LOT to know about breeding healthy, happy kittens (and puppies), and to know what to do with them when they are weaned. It is not all a piece of cake, especially when things go wrong. Vet bills are expensive, and having little bodies instead of little babies will make you wish you had been more responsible! Breeding Munchkins especially, as they are dwarf cats, is more delicate than breeding regular cats. To avoid unwanted, unhealthy, or disfigured kittens, and to make the experience a good one, I am willing to help anyone learn to breed healthy, happy kittens if you want to do it the right way, by papering the cats and not endangering the mother cat and babies with a poor diet, the wrong male, an unsuitable environment, or any other of the many mistakes untrained breeders often make. You can take advantage of my 30 years of experience by being responsible and prepared and getting educated. The same offer stands for breeding your Dachshund. OR, you can GET YOUR KITTEN OR PUPPY SPAYED OR NEUTERED by 5 to 6 mos. of age and avoid all of this. After all, you are paying good money for an awesome pet, I am trusting you to be an equally awesome owner!
RETURNS
Healthy kittens (and puppies), that you can’t keep, CANNOT be returned for a FULL refund. If you need to return a healthy kitten (or puppy), I will try to help you resell it by taking photos of him/her for your ad, or providing you with my previous photos, and I will even make the ad and post it for you, and field any questions from potential new buyers, and even give you referrals if I can. Just understand that as a kitten/puppy gets older, his/her price will decrease, as folks are usually looking for babies that are close to 8 weeks old. If you bought a kitten/puppy for breeding and that kitten/puppy is resold to another breeder, they will hold their value better, though, as they get closer to being old enough to breed and/or show. I realize life circumstances change, allergies can develop, and changes can occur that require a kitten or puppy to be re-homed. Just know that each time a kitten or a puppy leaves and returns, that can open the door to diseases coming into my otherwise closed and protected cattery and kennel. I do have to isolate the returned kitten/puppy, which stresses him/her, and sometimes leads to them becoming sick. That may lead to a vet bill for me, which stresses me! Please think about the “big picture” before committing to becoming a new kitten or puppy owner, as several lives are affected by a new furry family member, including the baby’s life, and mine!
Just food for thought: almost 7 years ago, the last healthy puppy I took back after less than 24 hrs., the buyers SWORE they took her home and nowhere else (they forgot to mention a little side-trip to Petco). I stupidly put her back with her litter, as she was only gone for 14 hrs. and was whining so pitifully alone. That led to Parvo coming into my otherwise healthy kennel and home, and the loss of 8 puppies, and a grand total of a $5200 vet bill~!!!!!!! We tried for almost 2 years to rid our home and kennel of the virus (which lives in San Diego for 1 to 3 years on most surfaces), but finally we just had to move to a new home and start over. (4 more puppies caught it before we moved, 1 died, even though they were only in ONE bleached bedroom at my house–ONLY, and we were SUPER careful!). You can imagine how I feel about the question of “can you take my puppy back, I changed my mind, etc. etc. etc.”. So on that note, I just ask everyone to consider all the aspects of bringing a new puppy into your home, a baby to grow up and hopefully live for 14 to 18 years as a cherished member of your family. I would rather answer a hundred questions than to have one puppy mistreated or worse because someone didn’t think this through. So feel free to ask…
Sincerely, Charlotte
My kitten package includes:
All my kittens are current on shots and wormings, Revolution (or Stronghold) has been applied to prevent fleas/ticks/roundworms/heartworm/ear mites, a new blanket, 3 toys, a bag of excellent food (Taste of the Wild), clean ears, trimmed nails, a shot record, and a 1-yr. congenital health guarantee. (I take $50 off the total if you get 2 kittens, or a puppy and a kitten, now or in the future)! Full TICA registration papers (for breeding and/or showing) can be ordered on any kitten for $200 more. Copies of parents’ TICA papers and pedigrees (if I have them) are available for free, just ask. Eventually I will have pedigrees on all of my kitty parents. >^..^<;::;~
My puppy package includes:
All of my puppies are current on their shots and wormings, and come with a bath, clean ears, trimmed nails, Revolution (or Stronghold) is applied (to prevent fleas/ticks/ear mites/heartworm/skin mites/and most roundworm), a new blanket, a Greenie or Dental Bone, a chew stick, a bag of excellent food, puppy training information, a new squeaky toy, the next wormer pill, and a 1 yr. health guarantee. (I take $50 off the total if you get 2 puppies, or a puppy and a kitten, now or in the future)! Full AKC papers can be ordered for $50 more if desired, if both parents are registered. Most of my Dachshund parents are AKC registered. If you would like to meet my AWESOME little sweethearts, please call or text Charlotte in Vista, Ca. at 858-229-2679/cell, or email me at [email protected]. <‘();:::;~
If you decide you would like to put a $100 deposit down on a particular kitten or puppy that is not yet ready to go, or one that is not born yet, then you can mail me a check which I will not cash until your chosen kitten reaches 6 weeks old. You can use PayPal if you prefer, but you don’t have to. The check is just as binding, and you can change your mind, and I will return it uncashed, until the chosen kitten or puppy is 6 weeks old. After that it is non-refundable, but can be used on a different available kitten or puppy then or in the future!
Thank you so much,
Charlotte Perrin
Cell: 858-229-2679
(For PayPal purposes, please use: [email protected]
Thank you)